Thursday, June 25, 2015

KARAOKE, JANIS JOPLIN, AND ME

As the writer of this blog, I would like you the reader to conjure up a visual of  me dressed up like Johnny Carson (U.S. TV comedian/host of Late Night Shows) in his role as Carnac the Magnificent.  Wearing a huge turban on my head and holding a sealed envelope to my forehead I would say with mesmerizing wisdom: "Karaoke, Janis Joplin and Me."   The question would be "Gaijin, what can you do to embarrass yourself in this country?"

 Karaoke, pronounced like car-ah-oh-kay in Japanese, is like a national sport in Japan.  It requires a lot of courage to stand up in front of other people, hold onto a mike and sing!  It's now quite  popular here, but, of course, like all other things that travel into other cultures across oceans, it is a bit morphed.

My first experience with karaoke came at the second party, meaning not a party a few days after another party, but the nijikai, which means party following the enkai, first party of the evening.  This enkai was our first office party  about two and a half months after we arrived in Kaseda, and was officially to welcome Brian, my Irish counterpart in our school system, and me into the office work force.

We started with an insane amount of food in a local restaurant and moved to a nearby karaoke for our first experience with singing amongst co-workers.   We soon found that these parties are paid through deductions from the salaries, so a fund is always ready to fund them.  (We were exempt and we did not have to contribute, just  attend.)  The two office ladies went out and purchased large bottles of beer and shochu, a Kagoshima spirit made from sweet potatoes that was a less expensive alternative to expensive sake. It has a distinctly unpleasant odor and is often mixed into hot water to drink, just like sake.  (Now, shochu is highly sought after throughout Japan.)  
Iwamoto San, Brian, I and another office worker in front of large Nabe, ceramic cookpots for seafood, veggies and tofu to cook while we eat.  There were four of us for one bowl.

Exotic mangosteen from hotter climes in Asia, this time party was at the Chinese restaurant.

Fujita San, our Shocho, the man with the Golden Voice, enjoying the food, and also the spirits.  The bottles hold both beer and shochu. Also note that these parties show us all having a good time seated on the floor!
 The karaoke was on the second floor above a store, and had several  private rooms that could be booked for groups.  Most of the karaoke that I would attend was held in these private rooms so one was always with the people in their own group, which is better for overcoming shyness and possibly making a fool of yourself.  Food and drinks could be ordered but some establishments allowed you to bring your own.

Karaoke it turns out is something you really love and you   participate fully, or you love to listen and observe, or you do not enjoy it, period.  I came to love watching the others sing, and found it was a great way to learn Japanese writing with  hiragana and kanji written on the screen.

Though Brian and I were both music lovers, I don't think either of us fancied ourselves as singers.  Even my older son, as a young child, would ask me, "Please don't sing," when he was sick.  I  confine my singing voice to the car, driving solo or in my home when I am alone.

At that first karaoke, our plan was to observe and quietly refrain from attracting any attention, lest they decide to insist we sing, too.  Well, that worked for awhile.  During observations, we found the human side of our co-workers.  It peeked out occasionally at the office, especially if they had any English.  Our supervisors always smiled kindly, tried to include us in jokes, but often busily bowed, smiled a greeting and went to work.  
Kaseda San and I waiting for the karaoke to begin.

But at karaoke, I found most had favorite songs that they would sing with good to awesome voices.  I found I loved to hear our shocho, the head of our local board of education office, sing his favorites.  He had a wonderfully tender voice.  It didn't match his efficient, somewhat stern work face.  I was getting a look at the personalities of these people I had seen for the past several weeks, and I found likeable, fun-loving, real people.  I liked these parties.

But my first experience to sing in front of others was almost traumatizing.   At least I didn't have to go solo; Brian and I were a team when times got tough.  We were now confronted with choosing a song from pages of Japanese titles, (this choice would have been impossible), or a short list of songs in English that was so out-dated we were not familiar with the music.  

Now, if you can sing and carry a tune, and the words are spelled out for you on a screen, it should not be that difficult.  But we were facing all kinds of deficiencies and totally out of our comfort zones.  Our Japanese co-workers strongly  suggested we try "I Left My Heart in San Francisco."  Right, go ahead, what could be so difficult?  You know the song, right?

Well, yes, we had both heard it, but not recently.  Try singing it right now?  Can you sing beyond the title?  The song was written when I was four years old.  And poor Brian, it was way before his time.  It's probably not sung that much in Ireland, unless he still belts it out occasionally in a nostalgic moment after lots of Guinness!  But we tried it out and were applauded for our efforts, if nothing else. 

The next three photos may or may not be something out of the ordinary in Japan.  For most parties, spouses and families were not included.  But in our countrified area, far from the bright lights of Tokyo, we sometimes partied in our Shocho's home, and the wives did much of the hard work of the preparations.  Then they came along for karaoke.   These were the absolute best parties.  I found that our office was made up of people that had known each other for a very long time.  They laughed, ate,sang, partied, and worked together, and they gave support to each other in times of grief.  I was proud to be in their midst.
Mr. and Mrs. Fuchida

The Ishizonos ( Ishizono San was our immediate supervisor and was always so concerned over our well-being.)

The Kasedas

We soon learned that it is best to practice a couple of songs, even the oldest ones, to prepare to sing at later events.  Eventually, we would find other places in town with somewhat updated music lists, and the city had even more.  We moved up to the Beatles and the Carpenters.  Eventually I found several tunes I could work with and I remember that Brian found a favorite in "Dancing Queen."  Most ALTs  seemed to do all right with "Hotel California" and I heard it almost every time I went.  The Carpenters' songs were really loved by the Japanese, as were songs by Frank Sinatra, like "My Way".  Their music was not too fast and the words were sung clearly.   These were still not songs from the 80's and 90's but we were at least into the 60's and 70's.

Rosie, (Ireland), Mark (England), and I listen as Brian (Ireland) croons a tune, most likely "Dancing Queen".

My favorites were "Killing Me Softly With His Song", "Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds", and when I got lucky, if they had "Me and Bobby McGee" I would sing that.  It was like a theme song;  I had come to Japan with nothing left to lose.  I could almost belt it out with some confidence.  In fact, I just found this on the Internet: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=POjrpDSVkE4 -  if you want to try it.  Oh, Internet, you would have made life so much easier 20 years ago.  

I will long remember when our shocho recognized some  of the meaning in the song.  He was reading along with the words on the screen, and he visibly sighed when he understood the words up there, "I would trade all my tomorrows for a single yesterday, to be holding Bobby's body next to mine...."  (Those are just lyrics after all, not really trading off any of MY tomorrows!)

After those first  experiences, I was probably going to karaoke once a month, with teachers at different schools, my  office, or with Japanese friends and adult students.  A couple of times I even went with other ALTs.  It became truly enjoyable.  My voice didn't improve, but that was never the point.  It was about having a good time.  

For many of us ALTs it was also something more.  Music is a universal language.  We found this was a good way to communicate cross-culturally so we learned a few songs in Japanese.  We were encouraged to learn an easy Japanese song, that was somewhat popular here in the US in the 60's, the "Sukiyaki" song.  Do you know it?  I didn't, but it was pleasant and easy to sing.  A teacher found a paper copy with the hiragana printing(Japanese syllable writing) that I could practice on my own.  Soon I could sing that when we went out with the office people, and they were pleased I had tried.

In late October I was invited to a Japanese wedding.  They had karaoke there and I heard a really beautiful Japanese song that is often sung at weddings, called "Kanpai."  The song was written by Tsuyoshi Nagabuchi, who just happened to be a singer/writer from Kagoshima, so he was beloved by the locals and this song was his biggest hit..  

For some reason I loved this song and still do.   I went back to the teacher who had found the "Sukiyaki" song for me to see if he could find this one.  Understanding the song was considerably more difficult,  he went above and beyond my request.  I soon had a cassette, (oh, yes, the old days), with several of Nagabuchi's best songs, and the paper copy so that I could practice "Kanpai."  And I did, every night; and for weeks I went to sleep with that cassette playing while I drifted off to sleep.

Practicing the song paid off, in huge ways.  For example, I never had to sing "I Left My Heart in San Francisco" again.  But more importantly when I first sang it as a surprise for my office, they were completely stunned at my efforts.  There was visible approval that I had taken on the task, and that I clearly loved some of their music.  I will always love Nagabuchi's songs and especially "Kanpai".  I had a pianist play it at a bar before I left Kagoshima for good in '98.  I sobbed through it, and it can still bring tears to my eyes when I try to sing it.  


Once I went on a karaoke date with the kindest guy I ever met.  I was just getting to know him, and he told me he could sing love songs in English.  I found that terribly romantic, silly me.  He started out with Disney's "When You Wish Upon a Star."  You know, that actually is a romantic song, but not if you watched it along with Jiminy Cricket singing the "Encyclopedia" song every Sunday evening since you were six years old.  (By the way, do you still have to sing along with Jiminy to spell "encyclopedia" or is it just me?)

When my younger son came to visit me in Japan much further into my stay, he did one heck of a job on "Great Balls of Fire", but we got into trouble when we tried an Elvis duet.  Just into the first chorus of "Are You Lonely Tonight," he looked at me in horror, and said, "Wait, there's a speaking part in this song!"  Not to worry, Mr. Kindest Guy I Ever Met stepped in and did an excellent rendition of Elvis speaking with just a hint of Japanese accent. 
 
 Steve, my younger son and I singing Elvis!



 Another teacher who came from Okinawa sang the Boom's hit, "ShimaUta," "The Island Song."  It was all in Japanese but I could see tropical flowers, the sand and the warm blue waters when he sang on the video background.  Some of my best friends, Wei, Shawn, and Brigid lived on wonderful islands.  I always think of them when I think of that song, and will do a future blog on my visit to Brigid and "her" island, Amami Oshima.  Amami looked just like the background on the video of the song, which I have noted for you at the end of the blog if you want to check it out.

Now when I listen to music there are many songs that remind me of those parties.  Looking back now, I can see Rochelle's face as she sang a popular song from a favorite Japanese soap opera, "Haruyo Koi."  I can see Mrs. Ono do a near professional job of "Somewhere Over the Rainbow" in English.  I can see Takehiro singing Elton John's "Your Song," Nobuchan singing the Righteous Brothers "Unchained Melody" and Nancy singing Madonna's  "Material Girl."  Mr. Kindest Guy I Ever Met is still singing love songs, in Japanese, English and Spanish, like Besame Mucho.  As for myself,  I have retained a great fondness for "Me and Bobby McGee."   

Here are some very good links to most  of the Japanese songs mentioned above.  Sorry that they don't appear so you just click on it; you will have to copy and paste.  I would urge you to try a couple, especially if you never went to karaoke or Japan, because they show the beautiful scenery of Japan in some of the backgrounds, just like they look for real, and on the karaoke videos.  It's wonderfully natsukashi, nostalgic, for those who have been to Japan.

Here's the link to "Kanpai": 
 https://search.yahoo.com/search;_ylt=AitSOdKUe5mtHdLu_rgZ3gSbvZx4?p=japanese+song%2C+Kampai&toggle=1&cop=mss&ei=UTF-8&fr=yfp-t-901&fp=1&soc_src=mail&soc_trk=ma            choose the 4th video box with the cherry blossoms to get the good scenery backgrounds.  

And here's a link for a loose translation to the song:  http://www.lyricsforsong.net/lyrics/tsuyoshi-nagabuchi-kanpai-english-lyrics_kqijqo.html

  "The Island Song":  
 https://search.yahoo.com/search;_ylt=AitSOdKUe5mtHdLu_rgZ3gSbvZx4?p=the+boom+shimauta&toggle=1&cop=mss&ei=UTF-8&fr=yfp-t-901&fp=1 
  choose the second video box and see the Japanese writing for the karaoke song.
translation
http://www.animelyrics.com/jpop/theboom/shimauta.htm


"Haruyo Koi"
 http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x2on33_haru-yo-koi_music
 I could not find a decent translation for this one.


Remember, I would love to have you leave a comment, perhaps your favorite song title???


Thursday, June 4, 2015

"OH, THE PLACES YOU'LL GO", (Dr. Seuss)


Before I left for Japan, my sons gave me the very best possible presents.  One was a copy of Dr. Seuss' book, "Oh, the Places You'll Go."
                      “You're off to Great Places!
                       Today is your day!
                       Your mountain is waiting,
                        So... get on your way!”  

I don't think they had any idea how those words would be dreams   come true and just how far I would go, nor did I. 
  
The other two presents were an address book with a note to take my friends' addresses from the States, and to write down my yet to be made new friends' addresses and telephone numbers, and a Japanese bird book, in English.  They were perfect!

They didn't know the bird book would become worn, scuffed and dog-eared.  They had no idea the address book would help me survive the first lonely months, and that I would fill it with ALT names from around the world, and wonderful new Japanese friends' names as well.  But no one was more surprised than I. 

After the first meeting of all the ALT's in Kagoshima Ken, I gained a lot of confidence to head out and travel on my own.  I was getting familiar with using the bus, and friends were coming in via train and bus to visit me in Kaseda.  Some had bought used cars and were even driving, on the other side of the road.  It actually was no longer intimidating to take my backpack, money and passport and pick a new place to visit for a weekend.  I had my copy of "Fodor's Japan", my bird book, camera and binoculars, and I was pretty much free to go on the weekends.

Another large boost to my confidence was an ALT meeting, this one in  far away Kumamoto.  Not really that far in hindsight, a little more than 3 hours away.  But now I had to learn to use the train system, which by the way, was so easy.  Signs were in Japanese kanji, but also English and even with multiple tracks and platforms, clearly marked with not only the names of the cities but with directional arrows.  It would be difficult to go in the wrong direction, and I don't think I ever did. 


The meeting in Kumamoto was for 3 days and ALTs attended from not only Kagoshima, but also Kumamoto and Miyazaki Kens (states).  The realization that the world seemed to be opening up for me was empowering.  I became enamored of every shrine and temple, those wonderful tiled roofs, the mountains, streams, and little shops and houses and gardens.  I so loved the gardens. 


These mums were at the castle in Kumamoto.  In Japan, great pride and lots of care groom magnificently large and colorful flowers by choosing only one blossom to bloom on each plant and supporting that bloom on a wire support so its weight does not make it drop or break the stem.

Seeing my first bougainvillea and birds of paradise in bloom, in the ground, not a flower shop, as well as angel trumpets and poinsettia were all new sights for me.  I was in a new climate as well as a new country.  The ginko trees, the camelias, the large persimmons hanging from the trees in fall, seemed so welcoming.

Bougainvillea blooming in the south of Kagoshima near Ibusuki.

Soon it became seamless to hop on a bus in my town, just 2 blocks from my apartment, get off the bus at the train station in Kagoshima City and catch a train to see Rochelle in Okuchi, or Shawn in Kagoshima City, as well as just going into Kagoshima to visit with ALTs or go for lunch and shopping.  I felt so grown up! 

Rochelle took me to see Sogi no Taki (Sogi Falls) in Okuchi, Kagoshima Ken, Japan. 

Different areas had various ways to dry the harvested rice   This teepee style was in Okuchi
 
This sawhorse style rack made of bamboo was the chosen method to dry the rice in Kaseda where I lived. 
 
But I would often feel the wonderment of a small child, seeing and learning new things every day. I was tabla rosa, an empty slate to hold all the sights and sounds, and even the smells and tastes.  Truly, I was in the right place at the right time for me.  And I didn't want to close my eyes and miss anything.

Around every nook and corner, even in the shops, were new things to see, kimono silks for souvenirs as scarves and change purses, native wood carvings, lacquer ware and ceramics.  The opportunities to learn about this new culture were endless.  Around a corner in Kumamoto was a rebuilt castle from the samurai days.  It's unfortunate but wooden buildings can burn or decay, so often the most beautiful sights were replicas of the real thing.  But they were wonderful places to learn and envision the history of this new land.


My first castle in Japan was Kumamoto Jo.  Of course, a land of enchantment must have castles.

If you can see the people down in front of the castle, you can get an idea of the scale of its true size.


Suizenji Koen, a formal Japanese garden in Kumamoto

A lovely example of the tiled roof on a building at the Japanese garden.

My ALT meeting in Kumamoto allowed me to follow my mother's bidding and track down a Japanese exchange student who had lived in my hometown in Pennsylvania a couple of years earlier.  Takako had stayed with her best friend's daughter, and my mother had met her several times.   I was on a mission, charged with carrying good wishes and letting her know they had not forgotten her.  When I called and spoke to Takako, she immediately said I must come to her home for dinner.  I took my friend Maria with me, and we were both given the royal treatment.  

Having dinner at Takako's home with her parents and brother.


Maria enjoyed getting together with this great family, too. The family setting reminded us of home.


Her mother had prepared local specialties, and it was here I was introduced to karashi rencom.  This is the root of the lotus, cut crosswise, stuffed with very spicy hot yellow mustard, (in the holes of the crosscut) and then each piece is floured and deep fried.  Later I would reflect that perhaps that was when a spell had been put on me.  I had eaten of the lotus, and I might not be able to leave this new land of enchantment so easily.

 In fact, all ALTs in their first and second years would have to make a choice as to whether to sign another contract for one more year, or leave the program and the country.   The decision would be due by February, which was now looming.  I would eventually have to make that choice, that in the beginning was so clearly a simple countdown to how many more months I would have to survive before I could leave.  And now after the fall travels and the Christmas visit from my son, I was thinking of the place as a "land of enchantment."  Clearly, new posts will reveal more about that important decision.